Al Mrzab
Al Bateen
Machboos, harees and thareed, cooked the way Emirati families eat rather than the way hotel buffets present it. Plain room, generous portions.
Actual Emirati home cooking, which is harder to find than it should be.
City guide
The quieter, wealthier capital: a mosque that stops conversation, a Jean Nouvel museum under a floating dome, and the Empty Quarter two hours south.
United Arab Emirates5 min readUpdated August 15, 2026
Abu Dhabi is what people expect Dubai to be and is not: lower, slower, greener, and considerably less interested in selling you anything. It has spent two decades building a cultural district on Saadiyat Island, and the first two museums there are genuinely world class.
Most visitors come for a day from Dubai and see the mosque and the Louvre. That is a fine day, but it misses the desert south of the city, which is the real reason to stay a night.
The capital eats more quietly than Dubai. The strengths are Levantine, Emirati and South Indian, and the hotel restaurants are more of the story here because so much of the city is hotels.
Al Bateen
Machboos, harees and thareed, cooked the way Emirati families eat rather than the way hotel buffets present it. Plain room, generous portions.
Actual Emirati home cooking, which is harder to find than it should be.
Al Khalidiyah
An Abu Dhabi institution since 1991: rotisserie chicken, garlic sauce, fresh bread and mezze, at prices that have barely moved. Everyone in the city has an order here.
Mina Zayed
Buy hammour or kingfish at the counter and take it next door to be grilled while you wait. The port district around it is unglamorous and completely real.
Saadiyat
The Parisian brasserie transplanted next to the Louvre, with a terrace over the water. The obvious dinner if you have spent the afternoon in the museum.
Ask the concierge to book thisSaadiyat for the museums and the best beach, the Corniche for the city, Yas for the theme parks and the racetrack.
West Corniche
The state palace hotel, on 85 hectares with its own marina. Enormous and theatrical in a way that is either the appeal or exactly not.
Ask the concierge to book this1,002 chandeliers, a private beach, and gold leaf applied without embarrassment.
On a protected beach where hawksbill turtles nest, ten minutes from the Louvre. The best combination of beach and museums in the city.
Ask the concierge to book thisSaadiyat
A fort-shaped resort deep in the Empty Quarter, surrounded by 300-metre dunes. Two and a half hours from the city and worth every minute of the drive.
Ask the concierge to book thisLiwa desert
Two of these are among the best buildings completed anywhere this century. Give each of them a proper half day.
Al Rawdah
Eighty-two domes, the largest hand-knotted carpet in the world, and a white marble courtyard inlaid with flowers. Free, open to visitors, and best in the last hour before sunset.
Local tip: Register a free timed entry online. Full-length clothing is required and abayas are provided at the entrance.
Saadiyat
Jean Nouvel's perforated dome over a museum-town on the water, dropping a rain of light onto the walkways. Hung chronologically across all cultures rather than by region, which is the interesting part.
Ras Al Akhdar
A working presidential palace that opens most of itself to visitors: a 37-metre dome, a library of Arab scholarship, and a light show on the facade after dark.
Corniche
Eight kilometres of landscaped waterfront with a cycle path, a public beach and the skyline across the bay. Free, and busy with residents at dusk all winter.
The emirate is far larger than the island. The desert is the reason to have a car.
A date-palm oasis irrigated by ancient falaj channels, a camel market, and a switchback road up Jebel Hafeet with the whole desert behind you.
oasis · mountain · full day
Ask the concierge to book thisThe edge of the Rub al Khali, the largest sand desert on earth, with dunes over 300 metres. Moreeb Dune is drivable and the silence out there is total.
desert · dunes · overnight
Ask the concierge to book thisA wildlife reserve island with free-roaming cheetah, giraffe and thousands of oryx, reached by ferry. Better as a two-night stay than a day trip.
wildlife · overnight
Ask the concierge to book thisEverything above, on one map. Colours mark what kind of place it is; tap a dot and its details open beside the map, and you keep your place. Day trips are left off, they sit well outside the city.
Pin positions are approximate: neighbourhood level, not street addresses.
Ankles, wrists and hair covered for women; long trousers and sleeves for men. Abayas are lent free at the entrance, and no exceptions are made.
Saadiyat, the Corniche, the mosque and Yas are each a 20 to 30 minute drive apart. Budget for taxis or hire a car.
Many venues open later on Fridays for prayers, and the mosque closes to visitors for a longer period. Plan that morning for the beach.
The mosque uses free timed entry that runs out, the Louvre is best on a quiet slot, and Liwa needs a car and a booking made in advance. Message the Simly concierge with your dates and a person will line the day up so you are not driving back and forth across the island.
Message the conciergeEverything in this guide assumes a working phone: maps between neighbourhoods that follow no grid, ride-hailing instead of flagging taxis, a menu handwritten in Arabic. A Simly eSIM activates before you land, so you step off the plane already connected.
Get a Simly eSIMAbu Dhabi, United Arab Emirates