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City guide

Florence

The Renaissance in walking distance, a steak the size of a brick, and a city centre that fits inside a twenty-minute stroll.

Italy5 min readUpdated August 15, 2026

At a glance

Language
Italian, with English standard in the centre
Currency
Euro. Cards fine, cash for market stalls
Best months
April to May, and September to October
Getting around
Entirely on foot. The centre is 2 km across
Dinner starts
8pm, earlier than Rome

Florence is small, which is both the appeal and the problem. Everything is close, and so is everybody else: the stretch between the Duomo and the Uffizi is one of the densest tourist corridors in Europe. Cross the river or walk north of the market and the pressure drops immediately.

It is a city to do slowly and with a booking. Two galleries hold most of what people come for, both require timed tickets, and the rest of the visit is food and hills.

  • Trattoria Sostanza
  • All'Antico Vinaio
  • Mercato Centrale
  • Il Santo Bevitore
  • Palazzo Guadagni
  • Hotel Lungarno
  • Ad Astra
  • Uffizi Gallery
  • Duomo and Brunelleschi's dome
  • Piazzale Michelangelo
  • Boboli Gardens
  • Siena
  • Chianti
  • Lucca

Where to eat

Tuscan cooking is bread, beans, olive oil and beef, and it is much better than that list makes it sound. The bistecca alla fiorentina is sold by weight, comes rare, and is meant for two people minimum.

Trattoria Sostanza

Santa Maria Novella

Open since 1869, seating about forty, and famous for a chicken breast cooked in an obscene quantity of butter. You will be sat next to strangers, which is part of it.

Local tip: Two dinner sittings only, cash preferred, and booked out weeks ahead. Phone rather than email.

Ask the concierge to book this
Butter chicken, communal tables, and a menu that has not changed in a century.

All'Antico Vinaio

Santa Croce

The schiacciata sandwich that broke the internet, and still genuinely good despite the queue and the four branches on one street. Six euros, eaten on a kerb.

Mercato Centrale

San Lorenzo

Ground floor is a real food market with tripe sellers and butchers. The upstairs food hall is polished and touristy, and the ground floor is the reason to come.

Il Santo Bevitore

San Frediano

Across the river, where Florentines eat: careful Tuscan cooking, a long wine list, and none of the shouting of the centre.

Ask the concierge to book this

Where to stay

Oltrarno, across the river, for a neighbourhood with residents. Santa Croce for walkable and cheaper. The blocks around the Duomo are convenient and relentless.

Palazzo Guadagni

Santo Spirito

A Renaissance palace with an open arcaded terrace on the top floor, over a square full of people drinking outside. Not luxurious, and hard to beat for the money.

Ask the concierge to book this
A loggia over Piazza Santo Spirito, which is the best square in the city.

Hotel Lungarno

On the river with balconies pointing straight at the Ponte Vecchio. Pay for a river-view room or do not bother staying here.

Ask the concierge to book this

Lungarno Acciaiuoli

Ad Astra

Rooms overlooking Europe's largest private walled garden, ten minutes uphill from the crowds. Eccentric and quiet.

Ask the concierge to book this

Torrigiani

What to see

Book the Uffizi and the Accademia before you do anything else. The other two on this list are outdoors and free.

Uffizi Gallery

Piazza della Signoria

The Medici collection in the Medici offices: Botticelli, Titian, Caravaggio, in rooms with windows over the Arno. Enormous, and worth pacing.

Local tip: Timed entry, booked online. The first slot of the day is the difference between looking at paintings and looking at shoulders.

Duomo and Brunelleschi's dome

Duomo

A dome nobody knew how to build until Brunelleschi worked it out, climbed by 463 steps between its two shells. The cathedral itself is surprisingly bare inside.

Local tip: The dome climb needs its own timed reservation and is not for anyone uneasy in tight spaces.

Piazzale Michelangelo

Oltrarno

The postcard view, from a terrace above the river. Free, busy at sunset, and worth walking up rather than taking the bus.

Boboli Gardens

Oltrarno

The Pitti Palace's hillside garden, full of statues, grottoes and long avenues. The best place in Florence to sit down and stop looking at art.

Worth leaving the city for

Tuscany is the reason many people come. Two of these need a car or a driver; Siena does not.

South, into the mountains

  1. Chianti

    40 km

    Cypress avenues, hill villages and estates that will pour you three wines and feed you lunch. Needs a driver, for obvious reasons.

    wine · driving · full day

    Ask the concierge to book this
  2. Siena

    70 km

    A medieval city built around a sloping shell-shaped square, with a striped cathedral and an old rivalry with Florence it has not entirely dropped.

    medieval · full day

    Ask the concierge to book this

West

  1. Lucca

    80 km

    A walled town where the Renaissance ramparts are now a tree-lined cycle path circling the whole city. Ninety minutes by train, and calm in a way Florence never is.

    cycling · calm · full day

    Ask the concierge to book this

Discover it yourself

Everything above, on one map. Colours mark what kind of place it is; tap a dot and its details open beside the map, and you keep your place. Day trips are left off, they sit well outside the city.

Showing 11 of 11

Pin positions are approximate: neighbourhood level, not street addresses.

Know before you go

  1. The Uffizi and Accademia sell out

    Both use timed entry and both fill days ahead from March to October. There is no useful walk-up option in season.

  2. The centre is a limited traffic zone

    Drive into it and a camera will post you a fine months later. If you hire a car for Chianti, park outside and walk in.

  3. The bistecca is priced per kilo

    A normal one is about 1.2 kg and is meant to be shared. It arrives rare and asking for it well done will be politely ignored.

Ask the concierge about Florence

Florence runs on timed tickets and small dining rooms: the Uffizi, the dome climb and Sostanza all need booking, and Chianti needs a driver rather than a hire car. Message the Simly concierge with your dates and a person will fit those together so you are not crossing the city twice in a day.

Message the concierge

Going to Italy?

Everything in this guide assumes a working phone: maps between neighbourhoods that follow no grid, ride-hailing instead of flagging taxis, a menu handwritten in Arabic. A Simly eSIM activates before you land, so you step off the plane already connected.

Get a Simly eSIM

Florence, Italy

Common questions

How many days do you need in Florence?
Two for the city, three or four if you want Siena, Lucca or a day in Chianti. It is small enough that more than that starts to repeat itself.
Is the David worth queueing for?
Yes, and no queue is necessary if you book. It is far larger and stranger in person than photographs suggest. The rest of the Accademia is thin.
Florence or Rome?
Rome for scale and layers, Florence for art in one walkable dose. Florence is the better first trip; Rome is the one you return to.