Trattoria Sostanza
Santa Maria Novella
Open since 1869, seating about forty, and famous for a chicken breast cooked in an obscene quantity of butter. You will be sat next to strangers, which is part of it.
Local tip: Two dinner sittings only, cash preferred, and booked out weeks ahead. Phone rather than email.
Ask the concierge to book thisButter chicken, communal tables, and a menu that has not changed in a century.